Apparently, Mexican crema is a little thinner than the sort of soured cream you might usually buy. I thinned mine down by mixing it really well with a little whole milk - so that it could just be poured. For me, some lime juice lifts the soured savour.

In a shallow baking dish, the plan is to roast the salsa’s ingredients together on a high shelf in a pre-heated 400F/200C oven for 20 minutes. So, add all the ingredients to your dish and give them a good stir to coat the tomatoes, onion, and cayennes with the oil, salt and pepper.

After ten minutes’ roasting, give everything a turning stir and return to the oven. After its final ten minutes, turn the oven down to 120F/50C. Remove your dish and let its contents cool a bit before tipping the whole lot into a processor and zapping it smooth. Add the lime juice, check the salt, and add more if needed. Keep it warm in a bowl in the cooling oven.

Place the tortillas evenly spread on a rack in the cooling oven. You want them to just start curling at the edges. So, they’re going to sit there gently drying – but checked on a couple of times so they don’t crisp at all - while you make the refried beans.

In a big skillet (I used a deep, 9-inch one), fry the diced bacon on a medium heat in a tablespoon olive oil to give it some fat-melting color. Don’t let the bacon crisp too much. Rather cook it gently with a few stirs for about 5 minutes. You want its fat to mix nicely with the olive oil. Good.

Now add the onions and garlic. Continue frying on that medium heat for another 7 minutes or so, until the onions soften and begin to barely take on a little colour - barely.

Add the beans, mix everything together really well and drop the heat to low-medium. Continue to cook with the odd thorough stir until the beans just start to catch on the bottom of the skillet, and they start to very slightly crisp. That’ll take maybe 10 minutes. The beans should be pretty dry – apparently, the Mexican term ‘refrito’ beans doesn’t so much mean refried but rather ‘well fried’ beans.

Remove from the heat and roughly mash the beans with a potato masher and season with salt and pepper. Don’t mash into a puree, you want to keep this pretty chunky. Done. Empty the beans into an oven-proof bowl and set them to keep warm in that low oven.

Wipe the skillet clean and set it on a high heat with four tablespoons of olive oil. That’s where the tortillas are heading when it’s good and hot.

I always use an egg poacher because it’s so much easier than poaching them in a pan of gently simmering water.

Bear in mind that, in terms of timing, you want the eggs to be ready as soon as you start plating our chilaquiles. And it’s time for that right now.

Pour off the olive oil from the skillet. (I keep it in in a little bowl for another day’s cooking.) Set the skillet back on a medium low heat and add the salsa roja. As soon as it starts to bubble, turn off the heat and add all the fried tortilla strips. It’ll be a crowded skillet, so gently coat all the strips with the salsa.

Cover each diner’s plate with a serving of tortilla and salsa. Now pour over a few flowing stripes of the crema, and crumble on some feta.

Arrange the beans in a nice curve around one half of each plate’s edge. Add the avocado and lime wedges to the opposite side.

Then add two poached eggs to each plate’s centre. Done! And well done, too. You’ve just made Mexico’s national breakfast.