The Jalapeño Planting Guide

Want a hot pepper that pays you back fast? Jalapeños are ready to pick about 66 to 75 days after they go in the ground, sooner than a habanero and far sooner than a ghost pepper. You start the seeds indoors in late winter or early spring, set the plants out once the nights warm up, and pick them green through the summer. Timing’s what changes with where you live, so the planner below works your dates out from your zip code.

How hot they get and what they taste like is over in our jalapeño profile. This page is all about growing them.

Gardeners Basics Jalapeño Pepper Seeds
Open-pollinated, non-GMO jalapeño seed grown in the USA. Since it’s open-pollinated, you can save seed from this year’s peppers and plant it again next year.

Last update on 2026-10-15. We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. 

Growing at a glance
Jalapeño Pepper
Heat
2,500–8,000 SHU
Start seeds indoors
8–12 weeks before your last spring frost
Germination
7–25 daysIn soil around 70–85°F. Germination is faster in warm soil.
Harden off
7–14 days before transplanting
Transplant
After last frost, once nights stay at 50°F or warmer
First harvest
66–75 days after transplanting, for green fruitRed, fully ripe fruit takes longer.
Plant height
18–24 inches
Containers
Does well in a container

When to plant jalapeños where you live

Jalapeños can’t take frost, and they don’t do much in cold soil either. Plant them out after your last frost, once nights stay at 50°F or warmer and the soil’s reached about 60°F.

Type in your zip code and the planner gives you dates for starting seeds, hardening off, transplanting and your first harvest, all from NOAA frost data for your area. It’ll also tell you if your season’s long enough. For jalapeños it almost always is: they ripen before frost in 98% of U.S. counties.


Map of U.S. counties showing where jalapeño peppers ripen before the first fall frost. Almost every county fits, except scattered high-elevation counties in the West and parts of northern Alaska.

Starting jalapeño seeds indoors

Start your seeds 8 to 12 weeks before your last spring frost. Don’t panic if they’re slow. Jalapeño seed can take anywhere from 7 to 25 days to come up, and it’s faster in warm soil, so keep the seed-starting mix somewhere between 70 and 85°F. Once the seedlings are up, give them bright light from overhead.

Got a seed packet that’s been in a drawer for a few years? Check how long pepper seeds last before you count on it.

A week or two before transplanting, start hardening them off. Set the seedlings outside for a little longer each day so they’re used to being outdoors by the time they go in the ground.

Planting jalapeños outside

Give them your sunniest spot. The University of Georgia recommends 8 to 10 hours of sun a day for peppers.

Space the plants about 18 inches apart, in rows 30 to 36 inches apart. There’s more on spacing in how much space pepper plants need.

Peppers like well-drained soil that’s slightly acidic to neutral, a pH of about 6.0 to 7.0. A soil test tells you where yours stands, and our guide to the best soil pH for peppers covers what to do about it.

Once the plants are in, mulch around them with compost, straw or wood chips. It keeps the weeds down and holds moisture in. Just keep it off the stems. Black plastic laid down before planting warms the soil, too.

Growing jalapeños in containers

Jalapeños do well in pots. Use a container of at least 5 gallons, which is enough for one or two plants, and make sure it’s got drainage holes.

Pots dry out fast. Once the plants are big and setting fruit, expect to water every day. There’s more in our guide to growing hot peppers in containers.

Watering and feeding jalapeños

Peppers want about an inch of water a week. If the rain doesn’t give them that, soak the soil thoroughly. Frequent light watering leads to weak roots, and uneven watering is tied to blossom-end rot. The planner above shows how much rain your area normally gets each month, so you’ll know when you’re on your own. Our post on watering pepper plants has the details, and if you think you’re giving them too much, here are the signs of overwatering pepper plants.

Don’t fertilize blind. Test your soil first, and unless the test says you need phosphorus, go with a low- or no-phosphorus fertilizer. Once fruit starts to set, a side dressing of fertilizer gives the plants a boost. Our guide to fertilizing pepper plants walks through what to use and when.

When to pick jalapeños

Most jalapeños get picked green. They’re ready when they’re full size, firm and dark green, about 66 to 75 days after transplanting depending on the variety.

Leave them on the plant and they’ll turn red. That takes longer, and it’s the same pepper, just fully ripe. If you’ve got green ones when frost is coming, you can ripen peppers off the vine.

Don’t pull peppers off the plant. Use shears or pruners. Pepper branches are brittle, and they’ll snap.

Picked a batch that’s barely hot? It happens, and here’s why your jalapeños might not be spicy.

Common jalapeño plant problems

For the rest, we’ve got a rundown of common pepper plant diseases and problems.

The PepperScale Scoville Heat Chart
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